Simple LED Controller (Common Anode) Board

Simple LED Controller - PCB Front.png
Simple LED Controller - PCB Back.png
Simple LED Controller - PCB Front.png
Simple LED Controller - PCB Back.png

Simple LED Controller (Common Anode) Board


You have this control panel thing and you over-committed yourself again by designing it to use, like, 8 LEDs, some of which need to blink and blah blah blah. What were you thinking? "LEDs ARE AWESOME!!!" is what you were thinking!

This product SKU is the PCB ONLY, no chip or resistors or headers or anything. Fully assembled part coming soon.

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Now, how to easily control them with your microcontroller thing? Two words:

Shift. Register.

Or... This. Thing.

This little circuit board makes it quick and simple to control up to 8 LEDs with a nice little shift register (NXP NPIC6C596A) and SMD resistors of your choosing (appropriate for your LEDs). Give it 3.3V or 5V on VCC, ground on GND, some other things on the other lines and use the code in the example here. BlinkenLEDs. Yum.

Here is an example of how to use it with a Freescale FRDM-KL25Z ARM-based mbed board:

Here's the same thing written for an Arduino:

It's a shift register, so this code is really just an example based off the datasheet for the NXP NPIC6C596A chip.

Here's a video of that code running 8 bright blue LEDs:

You can add a different resistor per LED or you can load up the board with CCRs like I did, which more efficiently limit current (ON Semi NSI45020T1G).

Here are the components you'll need to make this puppy go:

(Qty. 1) NXP NPIC6C596A open-drain (sinks current through output pins) shift register in SO16 SMD package
$0.89 each at Mouser:

The next two parts are pull-up resistors for MR and OE pins:

(Qty. 2) 10KΩ resistor, 1206 SMD size (R1, R2)
$0.10 each at Mouser:

Next, the resistors OR constant current drivers for the LEDs:

(Qty. 8) ~330Ω resistor, 1206 SMD size (R3 - R10)
$0.10 each at Mouser:


(Qty. 8) ON Semi NSI45020T1G CCRs in SOD-123 package
$0.50 each at Mouser:

The inputs and ground a voltage and such are just simple 0.1" spaced headers, so use your favorite break-away male or female headers for those. The "LED+" and "-LED" 0 - 8 holes also 0.1" spaced so you can do the same for each side of the board. Technically, you only need to use a single LED+ connection to power any LEDs you will connect to this, but I put one for each LED in case you do it sloppy like I did on the Office Chairiot. Each LED had a two-wire connector between it and the board, so having a positive connection for each LED was just a convenience.